• American Standard M953450-0020A Metal Drain Assembly, Polished Chrome
  • American Standard M953450-0020A Metal Drain Assembly, Polished Chrome
  • American Standard M953450-0020A Metal Drain Assembly, Polished Chrome
  • American Standard M953450-0020A Metal Drain Assembly, Polished Chrome
American Standard M953450-0020A Metal Drain Assembly, Polished Chrome
American Standard M953450-0020A Metal Drain Assembly, Polished Chrome
American Standard M953450-0020A Metal Drain Assembly, Polished Chrome
American Standard M953450-0020A Metal Drain Assembly, Polished Chrome

American Standard M953450-0020A Metal Drain Assembly, Polished Chrome

SKU:HA27WANOC
Sale price
SG$ 73.20
Regular price
SG$ 122.00
Unit price
per 
( 40% off )
Quantity:
Expected Delivery: 21-28 days

Tracked Shipping

Secure Payments

10 Days Return

Tracked Shipping

Secure Payments

10 Days Return

  • Replacement part
  • Metal drain assembly
  • Includes pivot rod, flange and stopper
  • Durable brass construction
  • Polished chrome finish

Customer Reviews

no instruction how pivot arm goes together, but great productcame with no instuctions how pivot arm goes together!went on line to see howparts are just put on arm in wrong ordero ring goes firstthen white plasticthe ballthen screw in nuti posted a image of how parts go4Good purchase. Don't forget plumber's putty and thread sealant.Good quality, but no instructions so I watched a YouTube vid to take apart the old one and put this one in. Was lucky enough to get the video where the guy showed his leaked from the pipe underneath the shank that holds the stopper arm, so was forewarned to unscrew the bottom pipe and put some plumbers tape or sealant before tightening up it and everything else. Would purchase again. Doing it myself was a little time consuming but it was a whole lot cheaper than hiring a plumber. Remember to get some plumbers putty for the assembly that goes in the sink, and some plumbers sealant or tape for the threaded joints.5Easy replacementAll metal product. The only plastic fitting is the retainer for the plunger arm. Installation is fairly straight forward. As one other reviewer wrote, there is no assembly instructions included with the part. As a result, look for the post that has the "exploded view". Basically, it's "o" ring first, nylon bushing (concave face towards outside), the all of the plunger arm fits into the nylon bushing, and finally the plastic retainer. Just make sure not to cross thread the plastic retainer. It would be easy to do, so be careful.The flange that fits into the sink is a bit smaller than the old one it replaced. Not a big deal, but.... if you have two sinks, buy two. Otherwise, it's likely that they'll look different. You may have to clean the sink with some Softscrub or other cleanser to remove any stains/residue from the old sink.This part compares favorably to the $28 version sold at the big box store. For the price of one of theirs, I purchased two new ones.5Not what you would expect from American StandardFirst the positives, product visually is very nice and appears solid. Packaging was very good also.Now the negatives. Absolutely no instructions or even a diagram enclosed. A.S. website is absolutely useless unless you want to buy something. After install there was an immediate leak between the tail outlet and the basin ass'y. This has been reported before by others. Easy repair with RTV. This appears to be a "press" fit that obviously is not tight. I installed two of these and they both leaked.If there is next time I will probably buy a "no name" drain ass'y from a big box store.1For the price a very good replacement.After looking at a broken ring in my bathroom sink for 2 years, I finally decided to replace.This drain does have an overflow, it is marked American Standard and is not lightweight and is 1 1/4 inch. Really, it is much better than I expected for the price.I used plumbers putty rather than the supplied rubber gasket on top because my sink is apparently a second and the indent was not concentric, so I can't comment on the gasket.After watching Steve Lavinmoniere videos, I took his advice and applied pipe dope to all threads and the top of the big Mack gasket on the bottom. It's a little messy, but this is probably my first plumbing experience with no leaks right out of the gate. Also I unscrewed the tail piece and applied pipe dope to those threads. So far, very pleased with the results.5Great quality!I bought this to replace a drain that was corroding and ugly. I'm using it on a cheap Price Pfister faucet and it works wonderfully! You can really tell this has a quality build, very solid and even shipped with a custom cap over the chrome to keep it shiny! I'm very impressed, especially at this price pointThe one I got is all metal. Some reviews have sai the main pipe is plastic but mine is not.5Too much shineFor an all-metal drain, fifteen dollars is a good price. The only items that aren't metal are the stopper body and the pivot rod nut. This has the overflow included, as well as a pop-up stopper. Although this is labeled as satin nickel for the finish, it has more of a polished finish. Since it is not side-by-side with the fixtures, the difference in finish isn't as noticeable, but it is (for me) a major issue.I purchased two of these at the same time and was disappointed to find that while one stopper had the brush marks inline (parallel) with the brand etching, but the other had brush marks that angled across the brand name.It would have been nice if the pivot rod nut had wings on it, to aid in tightening. It takes a little extra to get this finger tight, but it still provides ample seal.Assembly of the pivot rod (as it goes into the drain body) is: o-ring, plastic washer with concave side out, pivot rod, then plastic nut. Be sure that the nut is not cross-threaded. This nut, unlike other pivot rod nuts, is internal so it is unique and not easily replaced if cross-threaded.Pros:- all-metal body and tail- solid seal between stopper and flange- great price at 15 bucksCons:- more of a polished finish than a satin finish- the brush marks on the stopper aren't aligned with the logo3I have no idea why I did this again must be the price.I installed two new bathrooms about 7-years ago and installed a brand name plastic drain assembly on both sinks and the popup ball assembly failed on both within a month of each other. The popup on each are used maybe three times a week so the use is what I d call minimal. The pivot balls on both wore to the point I could no longer stop water leaking around the nut and onto the cabinet floor and a replacement assemble is about 7-bucks so getting this complete assembly for about 8-bucks was a steal. It seems the major issue of the negative reviews has been solved and this is about as all-metal (including the locknut) as you can get nowadays but most still have plastic where the parts are moving. Not all assemblies have a washer and O-ring for the pivot ball like my old ones that relied on friction but no matter what you have they will fail over time. Plastic seats, O-rings & gaskets can t help the problem of a plastic ball when it moves against the nut and all that cleaner, toothpaste, spit, snot and whatever else goes down the drain hits the pivot rod that s pointing up, slides down on it, lays against the pivot ball until it evaporates and over time starts to deteriorate it until it works its way around to the other side and starts leaking (see my pic). When the stopper is up the pivot rod in the drain is also pointing up and it creates a water flow path to the ball. The only way to fix it is to cut a round gasket out of a piece of rubber and slip it over the rod to go between the pivot ball and the retaining nut. I did cut a new gasket to stop the leak until I could get around to fixing the problem correctly. I have about 6-containers of plumbing parts but the pivot ball and nut were different on the three used spares I kept so replacing the whole assembly was the best way to go because I don t want to be looking under the sink every few days to see if it s leaking. I ve done a ton of plumbing in the past 50-years and considering the abuse these assemblies take with what tends to do down a bathroom sink drain my main complaint is that the pivot balls are plastic. It s not uncommon for the steel rod that connects to the popup to rust completely off within a few years like mine did. I have a sink in a log cabin that is so old it has a steel ball with a metal nut and it has never leaked in what must be 30-years of use. I swear this is the last time I ever install a drain with a popup assembly in my bathroom and will go with a straight drain and start using a 50-cent stopper or an assembly with a built in stopper like the KES S2007A KES Bathroom Sink Drain Stopper Pop Up with Overflow for Bath Vanity Sink BRASS Body and Stainless Steel Waste Pipe, Polished Chrome, S2007A. Make sure you check the Thomas Miller review, or my pic, to get the pivot ball assembly put together correctly because the parts are not on the stem the way they should be installed and no instructions were included with mine. I really didn t want to replace the whole assembly but, for the price, it was a no-brainier and it took about 10-minutes. One of my rules of plumbing is whenever you replace something plan on it leaking so use Plumber s Putty under the drain where it hits the sink (it is lightly flared unlike what another review stated) and have some Silicone handy if the rubber seal doesn t set properly and never expect that one of these things will be drip free from the get-go. This assembly does have the sink drain holes so be sure your sink takes this type of drain or you ll have some leaks you ll never stop. I went with 4-stars because it has a plastic pivot ball and nut when they should have been metal on what is otherwise a 5-star drain assembly. I can t believe I installed another one of these things with a popup mechanism I detest so give me 2-stars for doing it again and unless you have a love of this type of inferior popup design I d recommend you not do it but if this is really what you want this is a quality drain assembly. Sorry for the rant but I ve never replaced a bathroom drain assembly for reasons other than the popup or pivot ball failing and it s almost like they re designed to fail in these plastic weak points.4Better made than the original, but with one issueMy 17 year old AS sink developed rust around the drain, and when I removed it I discovered the edges of the silver flange had started to rust. This new one is all metal, with only plastic at the drain lever arm. I got it installed okay, but it kept leaking around the rubber gasket where the top nut is supposed to seal the drain with the sink. No matter how much I tightened it, water kept coming down the threads. I finally packed some plumber s putty between the rubber gasket and the metal washer above the large nut. After doing quarter turns tightening the nut and checking for leakage, I was eventually able to get the leak to stop. The rubber gasket alone did not seal the threads along the exterior of the drain pipe.4Great looking product, easy to install.It was easy to install. Plumber's putty under the flange, screw it all the way down. Tighten the big brass nut to squeeze the rubber washer against the bottom of the sink. The pipe below the pivot tee is installed hand tight with an O-ring seal. It comes 4" long, and my old unit was 3". Unscrew it, cut it to 3", de-bur it, screw it back in. No pipe wrench needed, no misaligning because you forgot to measure before you tightened the big brass nut (okay, you didn't, I did).You don't need Teflon pipe tape anywhere on this assembly.The arm for the plug needs to be put in the right way. In the box, it's assembled to ship (like in the picture), not to install. Take the parts off the shaft. The O-ring goes into the sidearm of the tee first. Then the plastic washer that has a partial spherical indent. The flat side goes in first with the spherical indent facing outwards. The white ball on the shaft goes up against the partial spherical indent. I smeared Vaseline on the ball first. Now, the gray nut goes in the hole and holds the ball in. That way, each end of the ball rides against a matching partial spherical surface. If the sink plug goes up and down when the lever goes down and up, you did it right.5
See All Reviews
Shipment tracking ID will be provided after your product(s) is dispatched. The delivery date stated is indicative and subject to availability, payment authorization, verification, and processing. In case your product(s) is not delivered due to an incorrect or invalid address, we will not be able to process any claims. However, we will notify you if it is returned to us.
  • Return or exchange requests can be made within 10 days of the delivery date.
  • To return or exchange any items, please email us at info@directnine.sg, clearly mentioning your order number and our customer support team will guide you on the process.
  • To be eligible for return, products must be in the exact condition you received them in. All packaging material must be undamaged and unused with the price tags intact.
  • Orders can be cancelled before dispatch. If the order has already been dispatched, cancellation fees might be charged.
  • Due to the nature of the products that we sell, we will not be able to replace or refund unwanted items if they have been opened or any seals are broken.
  • The refund will not include the import duties or the cost of delivery or return postage.
  • If your refund is approved, then it will automatically be credited to the original method of payment, within 7-10 days.
  • DirectNine reserves the right to alter and enforce this Return and Refund Policy at any time without having to serve a prior notice to users.
Description
  • Replacement part
  • Metal drain assembly
  • Includes pivot rod, flange and stopper
  • Durable brass construction
  • Polished chrome finish
Reviews

Customer Reviews

no instruction how pivot arm goes together, but great productcame with no instuctions how pivot arm goes together!went on line to see howparts are just put on arm in wrong ordero ring goes firstthen white plasticthe ballthen screw in nuti posted a image of how parts go4Good purchase. Don't forget plumber's putty and thread sealant.Good quality, but no instructions so I watched a YouTube vid to take apart the old one and put this one in. Was lucky enough to get the video where the guy showed his leaked from the pipe underneath the shank that holds the stopper arm, so was forewarned to unscrew the bottom pipe and put some plumbers tape or sealant before tightening up it and everything else. Would purchase again. Doing it myself was a little time consuming but it was a whole lot cheaper than hiring a plumber. Remember to get some plumbers putty for the assembly that goes in the sink, and some plumbers sealant or tape for the threaded joints.5Easy replacementAll metal product. The only plastic fitting is the retainer for the plunger arm. Installation is fairly straight forward. As one other reviewer wrote, there is no assembly instructions included with the part. As a result, look for the post that has the "exploded view". Basically, it's "o" ring first, nylon bushing (concave face towards outside), the all of the plunger arm fits into the nylon bushing, and finally the plastic retainer. Just make sure not to cross thread the plastic retainer. It would be easy to do, so be careful.The flange that fits into the sink is a bit smaller than the old one it replaced. Not a big deal, but.... if you have two sinks, buy two. Otherwise, it's likely that they'll look different. You may have to clean the sink with some Softscrub or other cleanser to remove any stains/residue from the old sink.This part compares favorably to the $28 version sold at the big box store. For the price of one of theirs, I purchased two new ones.5Not what you would expect from American StandardFirst the positives, product visually is very nice and appears solid. Packaging was very good also.Now the negatives. Absolutely no instructions or even a diagram enclosed. A.S. website is absolutely useless unless you want to buy something. After install there was an immediate leak between the tail outlet and the basin ass'y. This has been reported before by others. Easy repair with RTV. This appears to be a "press" fit that obviously is not tight. I installed two of these and they both leaked.If there is next time I will probably buy a "no name" drain ass'y from a big box store.1For the price a very good replacement.After looking at a broken ring in my bathroom sink for 2 years, I finally decided to replace.This drain does have an overflow, it is marked American Standard and is not lightweight and is 1 1/4 inch. Really, it is much better than I expected for the price.I used plumbers putty rather than the supplied rubber gasket on top because my sink is apparently a second and the indent was not concentric, so I can't comment on the gasket.After watching Steve Lavinmoniere videos, I took his advice and applied pipe dope to all threads and the top of the big Mack gasket on the bottom. It's a little messy, but this is probably my first plumbing experience with no leaks right out of the gate. Also I unscrewed the tail piece and applied pipe dope to those threads. So far, very pleased with the results.5Great quality!I bought this to replace a drain that was corroding and ugly. I'm using it on a cheap Price Pfister faucet and it works wonderfully! You can really tell this has a quality build, very solid and even shipped with a custom cap over the chrome to keep it shiny! I'm very impressed, especially at this price pointThe one I got is all metal. Some reviews have sai the main pipe is plastic but mine is not.5Too much shineFor an all-metal drain, fifteen dollars is a good price. The only items that aren't metal are the stopper body and the pivot rod nut. This has the overflow included, as well as a pop-up stopper. Although this is labeled as satin nickel for the finish, it has more of a polished finish. Since it is not side-by-side with the fixtures, the difference in finish isn't as noticeable, but it is (for me) a major issue.I purchased two of these at the same time and was disappointed to find that while one stopper had the brush marks inline (parallel) with the brand etching, but the other had brush marks that angled across the brand name.It would have been nice if the pivot rod nut had wings on it, to aid in tightening. It takes a little extra to get this finger tight, but it still provides ample seal.Assembly of the pivot rod (as it goes into the drain body) is: o-ring, plastic washer with concave side out, pivot rod, then plastic nut. Be sure that the nut is not cross-threaded. This nut, unlike other pivot rod nuts, is internal so it is unique and not easily replaced if cross-threaded.Pros:- all-metal body and tail- solid seal between stopper and flange- great price at 15 bucksCons:- more of a polished finish than a satin finish- the brush marks on the stopper aren't aligned with the logo3I have no idea why I did this again must be the price.I installed two new bathrooms about 7-years ago and installed a brand name plastic drain assembly on both sinks and the popup ball assembly failed on both within a month of each other. The popup on each are used maybe three times a week so the use is what I d call minimal. The pivot balls on both wore to the point I could no longer stop water leaking around the nut and onto the cabinet floor and a replacement assemble is about 7-bucks so getting this complete assembly for about 8-bucks was a steal. It seems the major issue of the negative reviews has been solved and this is about as all-metal (including the locknut) as you can get nowadays but most still have plastic where the parts are moving. Not all assemblies have a washer and O-ring for the pivot ball like my old ones that relied on friction but no matter what you have they will fail over time. Plastic seats, O-rings & gaskets can t help the problem of a plastic ball when it moves against the nut and all that cleaner, toothpaste, spit, snot and whatever else goes down the drain hits the pivot rod that s pointing up, slides down on it, lays against the pivot ball until it evaporates and over time starts to deteriorate it until it works its way around to the other side and starts leaking (see my pic). When the stopper is up the pivot rod in the drain is also pointing up and it creates a water flow path to the ball. The only way to fix it is to cut a round gasket out of a piece of rubber and slip it over the rod to go between the pivot ball and the retaining nut. I did cut a new gasket to stop the leak until I could get around to fixing the problem correctly. I have about 6-containers of plumbing parts but the pivot ball and nut were different on the three used spares I kept so replacing the whole assembly was the best way to go because I don t want to be looking under the sink every few days to see if it s leaking. I ve done a ton of plumbing in the past 50-years and considering the abuse these assemblies take with what tends to do down a bathroom sink drain my main complaint is that the pivot balls are plastic. It s not uncommon for the steel rod that connects to the popup to rust completely off within a few years like mine did. I have a sink in a log cabin that is so old it has a steel ball with a metal nut and it has never leaked in what must be 30-years of use. I swear this is the last time I ever install a drain with a popup assembly in my bathroom and will go with a straight drain and start using a 50-cent stopper or an assembly with a built in stopper like the KES S2007A KES Bathroom Sink Drain Stopper Pop Up with Overflow for Bath Vanity Sink BRASS Body and Stainless Steel Waste Pipe, Polished Chrome, S2007A. Make sure you check the Thomas Miller review, or my pic, to get the pivot ball assembly put together correctly because the parts are not on the stem the way they should be installed and no instructions were included with mine. I really didn t want to replace the whole assembly but, for the price, it was a no-brainier and it took about 10-minutes. One of my rules of plumbing is whenever you replace something plan on it leaking so use Plumber s Putty under the drain where it hits the sink (it is lightly flared unlike what another review stated) and have some Silicone handy if the rubber seal doesn t set properly and never expect that one of these things will be drip free from the get-go. This assembly does have the sink drain holes so be sure your sink takes this type of drain or you ll have some leaks you ll never stop. I went with 4-stars because it has a plastic pivot ball and nut when they should have been metal on what is otherwise a 5-star drain assembly. I can t believe I installed another one of these things with a popup mechanism I detest so give me 2-stars for doing it again and unless you have a love of this type of inferior popup design I d recommend you not do it but if this is really what you want this is a quality drain assembly. Sorry for the rant but I ve never replaced a bathroom drain assembly for reasons other than the popup or pivot ball failing and it s almost like they re designed to fail in these plastic weak points.4Better made than the original, but with one issueMy 17 year old AS sink developed rust around the drain, and when I removed it I discovered the edges of the silver flange had started to rust. This new one is all metal, with only plastic at the drain lever arm. I got it installed okay, but it kept leaking around the rubber gasket where the top nut is supposed to seal the drain with the sink. No matter how much I tightened it, water kept coming down the threads. I finally packed some plumber s putty between the rubber gasket and the metal washer above the large nut. After doing quarter turns tightening the nut and checking for leakage, I was eventually able to get the leak to stop. The rubber gasket alone did not seal the threads along the exterior of the drain pipe.4Great looking product, easy to install.It was easy to install. Plumber's putty under the flange, screw it all the way down. Tighten the big brass nut to squeeze the rubber washer against the bottom of the sink. The pipe below the pivot tee is installed hand tight with an O-ring seal. It comes 4" long, and my old unit was 3". Unscrew it, cut it to 3", de-bur it, screw it back in. No pipe wrench needed, no misaligning because you forgot to measure before you tightened the big brass nut (okay, you didn't, I did).You don't need Teflon pipe tape anywhere on this assembly.The arm for the plug needs to be put in the right way. In the box, it's assembled to ship (like in the picture), not to install. Take the parts off the shaft. The O-ring goes into the sidearm of the tee first. Then the plastic washer that has a partial spherical indent. The flat side goes in first with the spherical indent facing outwards. The white ball on the shaft goes up against the partial spherical indent. I smeared Vaseline on the ball first. Now, the gray nut goes in the hole and holds the ball in. That way, each end of the ball rides against a matching partial spherical surface. If the sink plug goes up and down when the lever goes down and up, you did it right.5
See All Reviews
Return And Refund Policy
  • Return or exchange requests can be made within 10 days of the delivery date.
  • To return or exchange any items, please email us at info@directnine.uk, clearly mentioning your order number and our customer support team will guide you on the process.
  • To be eligible for return, products must be in the exact condition you received them in. All packaging material must be undamaged and unused with the price tags intact.
  • Orders can be cancelled before dispatch. If the order has already been dispatched, cancellation fees might be charged.
  • Due to the nature of the products that we sell, we will not be able to replace or refund unwanted items if they have been opened or any seals are broken.
  • The refund will not include the import duties or the cost of delivery or return postage.
  • If your refund is approved, then it will automatically be credited to the original method of payment, within 7-10 days.
  • DirectNine reserves the right to alter and enforce this Return and Refund Policy at any time without having to serve a prior notice to users.
Delivery Policy
Shipment tracking ID will be provided after your product(s) is dispatched. The delivery date stated is indicative and subject to availability, payment authorization, verification, and processing. In case your product(s) is not delivered due to an incorrect or invalid address, we will not be able to process any claims. However, we will notify you if it is returned to us.

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